The History of Hand-Made Soap Making

Marketing directors worldwide will tell you that, in order to sell a new product, people must be convinced that:

• ·         It will enhance their sex drive.
• ·         It will lengthen their lives.
• ·         They will be socially unacceptable without it.

And so it came to pass that some biblical whizzkid spotted a gap in the market and proclaimed 'Cleanliness is next to godliness', sending people the world over in search of purifying and cleansing agents with which to improve their lot. In those early days, tree bark and herbs such as soapwort were used to enhance ablutions.

However, in the 8th century, the Italians and the Spanish set about creating what we now call soap from goat fat and beech tree ash. The French (a stylish bunch of people) introduced the concept of replacing the animal fat - or tallow - with olive oil. While the pioneers of America traditionally treated soap making as a home craft, creating sodium hydroxide by leaving rainwater to drip through a perforated barrel filled with hardwood ash.

The resulting solution was then boiled until it was concentrated enough for a fresh egg (still in its shell) to float on the surface without sinking. Fatwas rendered from whichever animals happened to be around at the time and grandma-style soap was created. Therefore, rough skin and holey socks were often unwelcome by-products of this rather caustic brew.

In England, in the early 17th century, the soap industry was developing at a rapid pace and King James I (a man very supportive of small businesses) granted soap makers special privileges. By 1791, the French were ahead again with the discovery, by the chemist Nicolas Leblanc, of a process that extracted soda from ordinary salt.

By this time the findings of Louis Pasteur had also firmly established that personal cleanliness reduced the spread of disease and the "hygienic movement' was born. Andrew Pears was one of the first people to define the need for soap as a cosmetic aid. The son of a Cornish farmer, he trained as a hairdresser and then established himself in his own salon in London's Soho where he also manufactured and sold rouges and other cosmetics.

He set about refining the existing harsh base soaps and eventually produced a transparent soap perfumed with the flowers of an English garden'. In 1835 Andrew brought his grandson, Francis Pears, into the business. Francis became his partner, a relationship which continued until 1838 when Andrew retired.

Some years later, Francis's son-in-law, Thomas Barratt, joined the company as a partner and brought with him the flair and marketing skills required to turn Pears' Soap Into a worldwide commodity. At this time, advertising was a revolutionary new concept and Barratt's creative schemes met much opposition. Undeterred, he mounted huge campaigns to inform the public that Pears' Soap was safe, healthy, and above all, made its users beautiful. His marketing projects were bold and costly but undoubtedly contributed enormously to the success of the company.

Barratt's use of John Everett Millals' painting Bubbles as an advertising poster promoting the soaps was only one of a number of enterprising schemes that, even today, trigger an immediate association with Pears' Soap.

For those born in the reign of the seldom amused and extremely modest Queen Victoria, the concept of a naked body-bath was decadent in the extreme (it was only in the second half of the 20th century that the idea of a daily bath was no longer considered both harmful and sinful).

However, it was during Victoria's reign that the entrepreneur WH Lever began the mass-production and marketing of soap. He established, as his base, a large factory and a new town, situated close to the River Mersey in northern England, which he named Port Sunlight. It was built specifically for the housing and welfare of his employees.

The late 20th century has spawned a revival for things natural and a renewed interest in herbal remedies. Many people seek to preserve the environment and to reduce the use of toxins and chemicals. The establishment and success of such organizations as the Body Shop have raised public awareness of the virtues of using natural cosmetics.

The strong principles of its founder, Anita Roddick, has also demonstrated that it is possible for women to build empires form small enterprises. A soap venture resulting from The Body Shop is proving very successful for Mark Constantine, another British entrepreneur, who has opened a fast-growing chain of retail soap 'delis' under the name of Lush.

Mark began in 1974, creating herbal hair and beauty treatments. He went on to form a creative partnership with Anita Roddick, originating and developing products for The Body Shop. He was their main supplier for over 15 years but, in 1994, launched his first shop in Poole marketing soaps and bath products made mainly from fresh fruit and vegetables, essential oils and 'safe' synthetics.

Mark is co-owner of the enterprise and considers his success to be the result of good team-work. The Lush products have wonderfully zany names like Angels on Bareskin and Dream Cream. The shops also have 'fresh cabinets' containing a selection of scrubs, masks and cleansers. Also, even a cleansing mask for men made with home-baked bread. See page 69 for our exclusive Lush bath.

The renaissance in soap making as a cottage industry is particularly prevalent in the United States. In the UK, many individuals, and women, in particular, are setting up satellite companies, often selling their products direct at craft fairs and wholesale to specialist stores.

Considerable care and creativity is demonstrated by these people, both in the use of fine ingredients and the decoration and presentation of their soaps. These enterprises have, in fact, challenged many of the larger soap manufacturers to package their products as wholesome lookalikes.

Yet, in reality, some of these natural' soaps are made using the same processes and ingredients as the mass-market polished bars that are so familiar to us, so you should be selective about what you buy. What is clear is that the soap industry was in general has always been initiated on sound principles and Good Intentions. Soap makers of the 1900s are a sharing Community and perhaps this attitude will, in addition to cleanliness, take us little nearer to that much sought after Godliness.